Page 41 - Livre Beau Rivage Palace
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Fig. 5

 the goodwill of the author and how helpful he wished to be to   no difficulty in renting an estate of this kind to meet their every need and   louis, others 4-5 louis, the cheapest 3 louis per month. The house in which   ideal of self-reliance is an important element in the creation of a tourist
 his readers. While such subjectivity does not seem to have caused   desire in the most beautiful countryside on the banks of Lake Geneva.’  one stays must be chosen with care, since the society into which one will   industry in the nineteenth century. It turned travelling into a completely
 problems in the beginning, in the closing years of the eighteenth   He goes on to quote the prices charged and recommends   be admitted usually depends on the persons in whose home one lodges.  risk-free operation because contacts with the unknown were reduced to an
 century, travel writers began to feel they should justify their   applying in advance to rent a house. However, his translator,   Those who live in the best boarding houses can count on being received in   absolute minimum.’ 18
 decision as to what should be included, as Heinrich Reichard   Samuel Wyttenbach, felt constrained to add a footnote: ‘Here, the   the town’s best circles. Those who take bed and board in less commendable
 did in 1793: ‘I believe it will please my readers if I give them a list of   author appears to have been wrongly informed; I know one such country   houses have scarcely any dealings with people of distinction unless they   INFRASTRUCTURE AND INDUSTRIALISATION
 inns where I know from experience that the guest will be very comfortable.  house near Lausanne, for which an English family paid one hundred louis   are provided with personal recommendations. Gaming is customary in all   ‘Modern’ travel guides first began to appear in the 1840s. This
 However, in so doing, I do not mean to decry those where I have not stayed,  per annum, fully furnished. Moreover, nowhere in the world could one   circles; there is only a small number from which cards are banned.’ (Ebel,  period saw the publication in quick succession of the three great
 nor do I guarantee that those I mention should still be favoured, since, like   have such a house unless one rented it for a full six months at half the   1805, vol. 3, pp. 217-218)  nineteenth-century guides – the German Baedeker, the British
 everything else, inns are subject to all manner of vicissitudes and changes.’  yearly rent; and in the region in question people are less easy to be fooled   The same text appears almost in full in a pirated edition   Murray and the French Joanne, forerunner of today’s Blue Guides.
 (La République helvétique, vol. 4, page unnumbered, 1793)  than elsewhere.’ (Ebel, 1795, vol. 1, pp. 42-43)  of the Ebel guide published in Paris in 1816. At this time – and   Switzerland, the most popular destination of the day, rapidly
 Reichard’s comment provides three pieces of information   Obviously, even though the locals were accustomed to   even well into the 1820s – staying as a guest in a private house   became the subject of a book in all three series: with Murray
 which need to be underlined and put into perspective. The first is   receiving guests, they might well have been motivated by self-  continued to be problematic since, as Ebel points out, the place   publishing in 1838, Joanne in 1841 and Baedeker in 1844 (the
 the importance of experience. As the basis of all utilitarian travel   interest and also lack the virtues of a good host. Once again, it was   where travellers lodged had a bearing on the kind of people with   first French edition appeared in 1852). Each in their own way
 literature of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, experience   a question of supply and demand. The 1805 edition of the Ebel   whom they could socialise. The links between host and guest   confirmed the virtual disappearance of private accommodation,
 alone was generally considered sufficient qualification for   guide clearly shows that both types of accommodation – inns and   remained not only very strong, but continued to exert a powerful   either by not mentioning it at all, by only mentioning inns and
 writing a guidebook. This explains many aspects of the guides   private houses – were current at the time. Ebel begins one chapter   influence on what guests learned and experienced during their   hotels or by referring to the erosion of the old ways, as Adolphe
 of the period which may surprise a modern reader. The author   by quoting the names of four different inns in Lausanne – ‘the lion   stay. In the grand tradition of the classical Grand Tour, encounters   Joanne does in the  introduction  to his 1841 guide:  ‘A number
 is not only an unbiased purveyor of information and knowledge,  d’or, the couronne, the cerf, the aigle’ – with no comment, favourable   with people – famous and not so famous – the opportunity to   of travellers complain with fervour and indignation at the high cost of
 he also appears as a witness in his own text. The second thing   or otherwise. Later, he deals with private accommodation, which   compare political and social systems, and to indulge in reflections   Swiss inns. In general we have to acknowledge that such complaints have
 Reichard points out is the problem encountered by all guides   he seems to prefer since he devotes much more space to it. Even   of a religious nature were considered just as important as visiting   always seemed to us unjust and overstated. There is no doubt that there
 when recommending hotels and inns – their unpredictability.  so, it is almost impossible to decide objectively whether it is the   significant places or seeing certain works of art. But, little by little,  are in Switzerland greedy individuals who cleverly take advantage of every
 A hotel recommended one day may not necessarily be worth   personal preference of a gentleman whose tastes still tended very   attention shifted away from what had been essential elements   favourable situation; but  […] is not accommodation in private houses
 recommending a few months later. Besides, the time it took for   much towards the classical or whether he is simply reporting on   of the traditional tour as travel  became increasingly based on   becoming as absurd as it is impossible in countries visited each year by
 guides to reach the bookshops and the time needed to carry   what was still the most usual type of lodging. Despite the fact that   individual requirements and personal preferences. The changes, at   thousands of people of every nation?’ (Joanne,1841, p. 17)
 out the necessary research and update information made it   guidebooks were meant to be brief and to the point, Ebel devotes   first mostly cultural and social, were to have consequences on the   According to Joanne, at that precise moment traditional
 difficult to meet readers’ needs. However, it is also noticeable   a long paragraph to the subject: ‘Foreigners. The town’s magnificent   purely practical level which would be reflected in the travel guides.  hospitality was giving way to industrialised tourism. All three
 that Reichard speaks of inns as the most usual type of visitor   position and the good manners of the citizens of the middle and upper   Since they sought to respond to the demands and needs of their   guides bear this out by beginning their chapters on Lausanne
 accommodation, a sure sign of the gradual move towards inns   class in whose homes one finds all the courtesy and refinement of the best   readership, they became very good barometers of the changing   with  lists  and  reviews  of  recommended  hotels.  It  is  noticeable
 and hotels and away from private hospitality.  circles, but not the vices and unbridled luxury of the big cities, together with   scene. From the 1830s and 40s onwards, these transformations were   that these reviews appear in a completely new position at the
 The latter could take various forms and at this time was still   the ease with which the French language may be thoroughly learned, make   tangible. The former Grand Tour made way for tourism which,  start of the chapter, rather than at the end or in the margin, and
 far from being a thing of the past. In his first guide to Switzerland,  Lausanne the favourite abode of a multitude of rich foreigners from all the   in turn, brought about changes in infrastructure, both in terms   that there is a linguistic change. What were once referred to
 Instructions pour un voyageur qui se propose de parcourir la Suisse,  nations of Europe. There are always large numbers of young English and   of mobility with steam ships and the railway gradually replacing   as inns are now called hotels. We also observe that these three
 published in 1795, Johann Gottfried Ebel writes as follows: ‘In the   other young persons of quality whose aim is to learn the language and   the stagecoach, and accommodation with the professionally run   trail-blazing guides recommend almost the same establishments:
 vicinity of Geneva and in the entire Canton of Vaud, many country houses   to acquire the habit of moving in society. Consequently, there are a large   inns and hotels taking over from private board and lodging. These  ‘Inns: Faucon, excellent, but rather expensive; – a new house, to be called
 are let to travelling foreigners and their families. Such a family will find   number of boarding houses for foreigners; the most expensive costing 6   advances inspired Laurent Tissot to write that ‘the promotion of the   Hotel de Gibbon, is in progress (1838); Lion d’Or, a comfortable and

 Jakob Samuel Weibel, View of Lausanne. Engraving, 1817.




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