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guests shared a communal table. Travellers who wished to dine in   In the early days of the luxury hotel business, catering seems to have   abundant stucco decorations, it conforms to the prototype of the   GASTRONOMY IN LUXURY HOTELS
 privacy alone or en famille could order room service. Strangely, the   been a basic service offering little or no customer choice.  deluxe hotel dining room  (fig.1).  In reality it appears that, as far as catering was concerned, the
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 table d’hôte principle, so unpopular in the late eighteenth and early   And yet this is not entirely the case. The wine cellar was   In many cases, as well as a restaurant the hotel had one or   facilities offered by luxury hotels were somewhat old fashioned.
 nineteenth centuries, was adopted by the grand hotels, especially in   often highlighted. The Grand Hotel proudly claimed that it had a   more cafés, following the fashion set in the 1820s and 30s by the   The restaurants that started to appear in Paris at the end of the
 Paris. While it was not the same disagreeable, eighteenth-century   million bottles in the basement. Many deluxe hotels opened shops   famous Café Riche and Café Anglais in Paris. One such example   eighteenth century were partly a rejection of the table d’hôte system
 scenario where regular diners took over-large helpings, leaving   selling the wines offered on their menus. Some even practised a   was the Café de la Paix. 17  which British customers found particularly shocking. It therefore
 only scraps for newcomers, it certainly involved one large table to   kind of vertical integration, with their own vineyards or farms to   With one or more large dining rooms, where the number   seems surprising that establishments that claimed to be at the cutting
 accommodate all the guests.  provide guests with guaranteed fresh, high-quality products. This   of covers varied between 200 and 800, a table d’hôte and limited   edge of technology – for example they were fitted with lifts – and
 Until the 1880s and 90s, luxury hotels offered their clientele   clearly shows that while service was relatively simple the quality of   service without pomp or ceremony, one might imagine that the   to offer the very best quality of service should resort to the same
 three possibilities: they could choose to eat in their rooms, in a   the meal was regarded as very important.   table decoration might also be simple. Not at all. Quite the contrary.  system. This is also the reason why from the 1880s onwards there
 restaurant within the hotel – sometimes from an à la carte menu,   Furthermore, it is very interesting to see the emphasis placed on   The table was as lavishly decorated as the room in which it stood.  was a gradual move away from table d’hôte to à la carte. 20
 although more often from a fixed-price one – or sitting at the   the dining room, restaurant and kitchens in the architectural design   Records survive of goods ordered by the Louvre and the Grand   This trend brought about two more important changes, one
 communal table and taking a fixed-price meal at a reduced rate (in   and fitting out of luxury hotels. This is clear to see from the plans   Hôtel de la Paix. For its inauguration, the latter placed an order   relating to service, the other to interior decor. We have already
 general one or two francs less on a meal costing a total of between   and the orders for catering equipment for the first deluxe hotels in   with Christofle the silversmiths worth nearly 300,000 French   established that, regardless of which system they used, deluxe hotel
 five and seven francs).  Paris, which became the international prototypes. Reporting on   francs. As well as the traditional cutlery, dishes, trays and all the    restaurants had adopted Russian-style service. The table d’hôte was
 Guests reacted to these arrangements in different ways,  the opening of the Hôtel du Louvre, L’Illustration of 20 October   usual tableware, there was also a large centrepiece, no doubt   abandoned in favour of classic catering on a very large scale and,
 depending on the type of clientele that frequented the hotel. As   1855, wrote: ‘At the end of the courtyard, four vast staircases lead to a   intended for the table d’hôte or the sideboard.  The order reflects   since the number of meals served showed no sign of decreasing, this
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 the table d’hôte was open to non-residents, it was more difficult to   wide and splendid gallery and then to the main hall and on to a dining   contemporary restaurant routines following the adoption of    style of service had to be adapted. It involved a precise ceremonial
 choose one’s company. Diners would take a ticket and hand it to   room, a lounge for the evening, and what one might imagine to be a throne   service à la russe. A decorative centrepiece in silver or porcelain   which could only be carried out by a very large staff. It required a
 the head waiter, who would show them to a vacant seat. There was   room on seeing its colossal dimensions, its ceilings covered with paintings and   replaced the dishes which, in accordance with the new style, were   team able to work in a perfectly co-ordinated fashion that would
 always the risk of finding oneself with uncongenial or rowdy table   caryatids, its mirrors, pilasters and wall panels of sculpted gold and marble   no longer placed on the table at the start of the meal. From the   impress customers while, most importantly of all, keeping the food
 companions.  and its extraordinary magnificence. Few palaces can contain such things. You   mid-nineteenth century  onwards, these  large  – sometimes  very   at the correct temperature. This meant employing a very large
 There are many surviving accounts on the subject, although   would imagine yourself in the throne room of Gastronomy. I might almost   large – centrepieces became veritable works of art. The one at   kitchen staff to produce à la carte service without making guests
 in general the system worked well.  The other big disadvantage of   compare it to the royal and mythological banqueting halls dreamed by the   the Grand Hôtel de la Paix was huge, consisting of four nymphs   wait too long, and at least as many waiters serving the large number
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 this type of restaurant was the noise – one can imagine the Grand   great Venetian painters. Its dimensions are grandiose: it is 40 metres long,   surrounded by large seashells and surmounted by an imposing   of tables. Once again, La Rotonde at the Beau-Rivage Palace gives
 in Paris, which could serve up to 800 covers at its table d’hôte.   13 wide and 11 high. Here, Belshazzar might have held his feast and the   statue of Peace.  Beside this rose various tall figures including a   a very good idea of the situation (figs 2, 3 and 4).
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 Even though this was actually made up of several tables, it still   marriage at Cana could comfortably have been celebrated.’ 14  Neptune copied from the gardens at Versailles and a Diana. The   These changes led to the appearance in the dining room
 represented a considerable number of guests and inevitably a lot of   There was similar praise for the Grand Hôtel de la Paix on   whole thing was placed on a large table with an array of baskets   of a range of new products, such as plate and dish covers and
 noise from conversation and the clatter of cutlery on plates.  the Place de l’Opéra, which the 1862 Joanne guide described as   and probably candlesticks too. Few objects of this sort have survived   plate warmers.  But more than anything else they provided the
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 Even so this style of catering was not altogether new to guests.  follows: ‘The great dining room [is a] monument unlike any other on   so no one is sure how other deluxe hotels were equipped, but   opportunity for a genuine spectacle, straight out of the pages
 The shipping companies did the same on board their liners where   earth; its semicircular shape, the glass dome which dominates it, its artistic   there is nothing to suggest they were any different. After all, the   of Grimod de la Reynière and his treatise on the art of carving
 the table d’hôte was the norm, especially on transatlantic voyages. 13  fireplace, its numerous caryatids, its many features, its glittering chandelier   intention was to create harmony between the fine food on offer   entitled Traité de la dissection des viandes à table.  No longer did
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 The advertisements for luxury hotels are revealing. They often   and its thousand of garlands astonish the mind and dazzle the eye.’ 15  and the opulence of the decor. From the earliest days of the luxury   poultry, roasts or any other joint of meat arrive on a dish that was
 mention a restaurant with a set menu at a fixed price and another à   The Beau-Rivage Palace at Ouchy shares similar characteristics,   hotel business, hotels were synonymous with luxurious restaurants,  then placed on the table, nor ready carved on the plate. Instead it
 la carte menu at a fixed price. On the other hand, neither the dishes   with its vast spaces such as the restaurant La Rotonde. With its   where the term ‘deluxe’ applied more to the practical organisation   appeared on the carving table. A magnificent combination of the
 and specialities on offer, nor the names of the chefs are ever displayed.  huge chandelier, glass domed roof, marble columns and statues and   and the décor than to the quality of the cuisine.  arts of the cabinetmaker and the silversmith (consisting of a plate

 < Fig. 1                                                                 Fig. 2 >
 The dining room in its original state with the great glass domed ceiling.   Kitchen staff. Anonymous photograph, 1911.
 Photograph, c.1920.
 The generous use of space is matched by the opulence of the decor and
 the elegant dinner-table settings.
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