Page 303 - Livre Beau Rivage Palace
P. 303

Fig. 1           Fig. 2                                                  Fig. 3

 THE BEAU-RIVAGE.  nine years old], as the title of one of his best books would later recall.   of its European competitors, destroyed, requisitioned or, at best,
                  My father, half irritated, half amused, muttered a vague reprimand.
                                                                          converted into hospitals if possible (fig. 3). My parents remained at
 A PEACEFUL HAVEN FOR  My mother smiled, remembering how she, who adored her own   the Beau-Rivage Palace for about ten days. They were given rooms

 A FAMILY AT WAR  home and the intimacy of dinners with friends more than anything   250 and 251 on the second floor, overlooking the lake. While my
                                                                          father busied himself establishing very discreet contacts, my mother
                  else, had on many occasions pilloried the ‘ghastly luxury hotels’ of
                  Vichy in front of her sons. These had been used by the government   reread  the poems  of  Rilke  in  the  park,  filled  with  wonder  and
                  to house – as best it could – its ministers, its administration and its   melancholy. My brothers lost no time winning over the staff. By
                  backstage manoeuvring, often made to look derisory by events.   the end of the first five days, they knew practically everyone, from
                      One hour earlier, the family car had crossed the border at   the kitchens to the attics. Here the porters, head waiters, sommeliers,
                  Pougny-Chancy, the only authorised crossing point.  The black   chambermaids and valets replaced the secretaries and civil servants
                  15-cv Citroën Traction Avant, bearing the official sticker of the   they had glimpsed around the large, requisitioned hotels of Vichy.
                  French government, had just climbed the road (deserted at that   Contrary to all expectations in such troubled times, the Beau-
 Gabriel JARDIN
                  hour) that is made up of a series of perilous bends from Pont-d’Ain   Rivage Palace was not deserted. Around sixty guests peopled it
 Saturday, 11 September 1943. They had left Vichy that same   to the ‘suspicious’ activities of a number of unnamed people. Among   to Nantua then passes through the narrow gorge of Fort-l’Ecluse   with their comings and goings. In the dining room, located at that
 morning, on a gloomy day. The journey had been bleak, if not   them, Jean Jardin was easily identifiable (fig. 2).  to enter the Geneva region. On one of the bends, at Val d’Enfer, a   time in the large central rotunda, depending on the day, you might
 downright sinister. Accompanied by their two older sons, Simon   Some high-up but sympathetic friends, who had hoped to   band of Resistance fighters had captured a German armoured car,   have rubbed shoulders with local dignitaries and Geneva bankers,
 and Pascal, my parents had left for Switzerland ‘on an exploratory   keep him in his post as long as possible, realised that something   and it now stood in the middle of the road, its doors wide open.  Romanian or Polish princes, Italian or Belgian industrialists and
 mission’. They were travelling towards the unknown, a new country   needed to be done. It was decided to give my father an overseas   The bodies of its uniformed occupants lay under the vehicle. My   aristocrats, Portuguese or Greek businessmen, or Brazilian, Czech or
 they did not know, in the middle of the war. It already felt like an   posting. There had been talk of the Vatican, or Madrid; in the end   father, with one hand on the wheel and the other on a large-calibre   perhaps Cuban diplomats. The impassive expression on some of their
 exile (fig.1).  Switzerland was selected, a neutral country, miraculously spared by   revolver, had slowed down, driven around the obstacle and noticed   faces could just as easily have been because they were on the run,
 Jean Jardin, my father, was a high-ranking civil servant whose   the war and home to all the international intrigues, both the official   that the small group of partisans… was saluting him. At the customs   or on some top-secret mission. Mr de Steiger, a federal councillor,
 loyalty towards the state he had always served had brought him to   (it was, we should not forget, one of the rare states that maintained   point, the German military police had examined their visas carefully   came on two successive Sundays with his wife and a number of
 Vichy. Nevertheless, since France’s defeat, he had forged many links   diplomatic relations with both the warring Axis powers and the   and suspiciously, holding the car for several interminable minutes.   political and diplomatic figures came, like him, from Bern. The
 with the various facets of the French Resistance. Not a combatant   Allies) and the most secret.  They had finally crossed the Rhone over the narrow bridge, and   Prince of Monaco made a brief appearance there, accompanied by
 in the physical sense of the word, but still resisting the occupiers in   Before deciding upon the precise nature of the posting, they   reached the other side, entering the country of freedom.  the conductor Igor Markevitch, while in the corridors some Jewish
 his own way, he had not hesitated to aid and support the Gaullist   asked my father to come here with the objective – not acknowledged,   My brothers stared avidly at the manicured Geneva countryside.   refugees (practically the only ones there with children) crossed
 dissidents. He had provided funds and false identity papers, hidden   but understood by my father, nonetheless – of contacting the French   Night had almost fallen by the time they reached Geneva, and all   paths with a Berlin doctor with a forbidding expression whom my
 Jewish friends under threat of arrest in his home in the village of   leaders of both sides, the Vichy Regime and the Resistance. At the   four of them saw what so many people around the world had not   brothers had immediately dubbed a ‘terrifying Nazi spy’. There was
 Charmeil, found seats on fully booked planes and organised border   time, the only official embassy representing France was that of the   seen for years, and what these two eleven- and nine-year-old boys   an Italian count at odds with the recently deposed fascist regime,
 crossings into Spain. His activities had eventually come to the notice   Pétain government, in Bern. All the same, an unofficial Resistance   no longer had any memory of: a city all lit up – and intact. Their   very troubled by the 13 September news of Mussolini’s liberation
 not only of his superiors, who more or less turned a blind eye to   office operated out of Geneva, with the full knowledge of the Swiss   arrival at the harbour revealed a sort of apparition, an illuminated   by a German commando group. Nevertheless, it did not stop him
 them, but also of the collaborationist circles and even the occupying   Federal Council. Lausanne was therefore a natural destination for an   fountain straight out of the fairy tales, that was to recur all along the   casting languorous glances in the gardens at my mother and the wife
 forces. The threat became more tangible: the head of the Vichy   initial and very discreet exploration of the options.  lakeside, up to and including their arrival at Ouchy.  of the Swiss envoy to Budapest.
 France Milice, the very powerful Joseph Darnand, issued continual   ‘We must resign ourselves to entering this ghastly luxury hotel!’ This   If their entry into Switzerland already had a dream-like quality   During this brief stay, Jean Jardin made friends with a rich
 warnings against my father, while Geissler, the head of the Vichy   odd remark was made by my brother Pascal, who at the time was   about it, imagine the effect a large, prestigious hotel must have had   tobacco merchant, an Armenian Turk. I was to meet him myself as
 Gestapo, sent a report to Berlin drawing his government’s attention   experiencing all the ups and downs of La Guerre à neuf ans [the war at   at that moment, one that had been spared the fate inflicted on most   a child, long after the war, and his rapid, imperious way of talking

 Jean Jardin, his wife and sons Simon and Pascal near Rougemont,   Jean Jardin at the start of the war when he was Principal Private Secretary   The hotel foyer as it was during the Jardin family’s stay.
 winter 1943-44. Photograph.  to the Minister of Finance. Photograph.



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